Aman ki Asha - I

Gulf

Couple of years back Bahrain
And now UAE. UAE consists of 7 states namely Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al-Quwain, Rasal-Khaimah and Fujairah.

None of the above places was ever listed in my travel plan. Never had the slightest inclination to visit these places.

Glitz and glamour of this place starts the moment you land at the Dubai airport. Massive indoors waterfalls, long elevators, long conveyor belts; branded shops everything around was eye candy.

UAE consists only 19% of the original natives and the balance 81% consists of Indians, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Sri Lankan, Pilipino etc. all of them here for their share of bread and butter.

Apart from this economics got an experience to share. One evening was returning from Gold Souk – Deira to my hotel at Damascus Street, which is a good 20-25 minutes drive. I was waiting for a taxi on the pathway; you see all Asian faces and more of Keralites.

The place looks very familiar like any other city in India, especially Mumbai; but you not feel comfortable especially when alone. One is reminded constantly that it’s a place away from home.

I was trying to stop any taxi coming my way. A skinny looking person on the pathway would speak something to the taxi driver in Arabic and the taxi would go before I could board it. This was repeated 3-4 times. Fifth taxi halted and before he could say anything I gave a hard look and boarded the taxi.
As soon as I boarded this taxi I started getting some wrong vibes and feeling very restless. Though the taxi was a Toyota Camry and a spacious one I gathered myself in one corner timidly.
The interiors, the dashboard all looked so alien. The Arabic music gave go pleasure to my ears. The taxi driver was a middle-aged guy with a paunch and his body language read shabby. He started speaking Hindi in heavy Arabic accent.
First talking only to him in a loud voice then trying to belittle Indians by murmuring beneath his breath.

The discomfort was sensed instantaneously.

I let a few moments pass, and then started a conversation with him.

Me : Kaha ke ho??? (Where are you from??)

TD : Peshawar.

(God he is a Pakistani…what next)

Me : Oh Peshawar!!!!

TD : Ha ha Peshawar (yes yes Peshawar)

Me : Bahut acchi jagah hai Peshawar. (Peshawar is a nice place)

TD : Aap jante ho?? (U know the place??)

Me : Ha ha janti hoon ( yes yes, I know)

With this he started all the praises for his hometown, and I prayed that I reach the hotel safely, still feeling terribly uncomfortable

Me: Peshawari Khana bahut accha banta hai ( Peshawari delicacies are so great)

TD : Ha ha..bahut accha (ya ya very tasty)

Me : Aur Peshawari masalo ka swad tho lajawab ( and the spices of Peshawar at so unique)

TD : Aap jante ho??? (You know??) (A bit soft now)

Me : Ha ha jante hai (ya ya I know it)

Pause (??)

Me : Aap Peshawar mein Pashto bath karte ho na?? (You speak Pashto in Peshawar na??)

TD : (a bit surprised) ha Pashto bath karte hai, aap kaise jante ho???(Ya we speak Pashto, how do you know??)

Pause (??)

Me : Waha ek nadi bhi bhethi hai (a river also flows in Peshawar)
(This was a googly from my side)

TD : (now a more surprised) ha bheti hai, aap Peshawar aayee ho kai??? (ya a river flows there – have you been to Peshawar??)

Me : Ha ek baar mauka mila tha (ya once I had an opportunity)

The taxi driver by now was very very warm in his speech and was talking with a lot of respect. He was going non-stop about his homeland. I had to cut the distance I had no choice but to hear him. He still had the sharpness in his voice but this time a little milder.

TD : aap kise janti thi waha (whom did you know there??)

Without wasting a second I replied

Me : Benazir Bhutto!!!!

TD : kya??? (what??)

Me : (laughing) baas unhiko janti thi ab tho woh nahi rahi (Just knew her, now she is no more).

Then the taxi driver started showering loads of praises about her and the politics in Pakistan.
Started saying how he makes a living here and can give a decent life to his family, which he cant do in his country.

By now he had kept aside his Pakistani tag and was talking as one human being to another, which was more appreciated.
But I still sensed those wrong vibes

TD : Aaap Hindustani ho ke haamari muluq ki bare mein kitna jaanti ho, waha aaki bhi gayee ho…Aapko dekhne ka hamara nazariya badal gaya. (You are an Hindustani, you know so much about my land, You have visited my land, my view about you is changing)

His views were changing.
And mine were not. What was in his mind when I boarded his taxi I wondered? The city was in full glitter, high-end car moved around with ease, could see some villas outside, but still felt so insecure.

By now I could see my hotel and I was feeling slightly better.

As the taxi parked in the lobby and it was time to leave the taxi, the driver joined both his hands and asked for forgiveness saying, “ To be truthful I had ill feelings about you when you boarded the taxi I had not liked it, and above all you an Indian, please forgive me, but after talking to you my views have changed. We never are interested about India, but how much you know about our country, which even I don’t know, I feel ashamed. Mujhe maaf kar do. (Please forgive me)

Me : Don’t treat the next Indian who comes in your taxi like the way you did now. Pakistan has been a part of India, so when I knew you were from Pakistan, you were very much a part of our land, and I could be the safest in your taxi, as I know I am traveling with my brother. (Though filmy it was strong)

The taxi driver felt the blow and apologized frantically. I left the place gracefully thanking God, only to tell myself how scared I was.
After I retired to my room I reminisced the entire episode…

Neither had I been to Peshawar nor did I know Benazir Bhutto and nor was I familiar with their spices they used in their cooking.

All my virtual traveling and my reading helped me that day. The food I had in Sigree (which is a specialty restaurant in Pune, caters Pakistani delicacies and mention spices with every dish they offer) helped me to talk about spices, Shantaram - the book I read - described about the author’s journey via Peshawar to Afghanistan which helped me to narrate the topography of the place though I did not know which river flows there, and of course who else than Benazir Bhutto could be a strong female I could talk to portrait my strength and that I can face this situation?????

Always saw Pakistan from India….but this time the lens was wider and the picture somewhat un (?)clear

The next day met a Kashmiri…………. But this time the kaleidoscope gave me a different scene

Aman ki Asha…does it exists????????

(To be continued)